Animal free Testing for Cosmetics

 

"Animal Testing is needless, especially in cosmetics"- Leona Lewis

Every year, over 100 millions of animals including mice, rats, frogs, dogs, cats, rabbits, hamsters, guinea pigs, monkeys, fish, and birds etc are killed in laboratories across the globe for various reasons such as biology lessons, medical training, and testing of chemicals, drugs, food and cosmetics. They are forced to inhale toxic fumes, or restrained and starved for hours, some have holes drilled into their skulls, and others have their skin burned off or their spinal cords crushed. Basically, live animals are treated like disposable laboratory equipment. Over the years, animal activists have been raising their voice to curb the use of animals for testing purposes especially cosmetics.

In past, animals have been widely used to assess the safety and toxicity of cosmetic products and their ingredients. However, the trend is now changing. In 2010, the EU Directive 2010/63/EU on the protection of animals used for scientific purposes was issued. This banned the testing and marketing of cosmetic products and their ingredients on animals. Soon, India also announced the ban on testing of cosmetics on animals and made the amendments in Drugs and Cosmetics Rules, 1945. Under this rule, no person shall use any animal for the testing of cosmetics. Animals are no longer the main means for cosmetic testing due to ethical, efficiency and economic reasons. With the technological development, scientists have been able to develop alternative methods for testing of cosmetics.

Alternatives to animal testing implies to the development and implementation of test methods that avoid the use of live animals. Alternative models offer more efficiency by reducing the time taken to obtain the results. Since, animals do not necessarily have the same architecture as the human body; accuracy also plays an important aspect of alternate testing.

Alternate testing of cosmetics follows 3R principle: Reduction, Replacement and Refinement. Reduction refers to obtain more and more relevant information from the minimum number of animals. Replacement refers to the preferred use of non-animal methods over animal methods to achieve the same scientific aim. Refinement refers to methods that minimize suffering to the animals.

Alternate methods include in-vitro and ex-vivo models. In vitro methods include cell- based assays. They play an important role in animal free testing as they mimic the cellular environment of humans. They are an important tool to investigate the molecular interventions and cellular signaling pathways, which is not possible with animal models or in-vivo testing. In vitro testing is mostly carried out using 2D cell based models and cellular components or tissues which are necessary for the understanding of biological systems. With the advancement of technology, 3D cell-based models are also now available to understand the complex cellular communication of human body. Ex-vivo assays have been widely used as alternate methods to animal testing. They bridge the gap between simple in vitro systems and complex in vivo models by combining the best of both systems.

Dabur Research Foundation (DRF) specializes in providing alternatives to animal testing for cosmetics (individual ingredients and end formulation). We assure to offer efficient, accurate, reliable and economic solutions as the alternative to the animal experimentation. DRF undertakes both efficacy as well as safety under the umbrella of alternate testing for cosmetics. DRF offers a plethora of in-vitro and ex-vivo models for variety of Cosmetic claims such as:

ü  Skin Rejuvenation/ Skin Health Promotion- Assays include Fibroblasts/ keratinocytes proliferation, Extra-cellular matrix (ECM) components (Elastin, Hyaluronic acid, Collagen), lipid content, skin barrier function

ü  Anti Aging & Anti Wrinkle & Photo-protection- Assays include cytoprotection against damage, cellular senescence, skin inflammation by estimation of different cytokines, cell migration

ü  Skin Whitening / Anti Blemish- included assays are melanogenesis, tyrosinase enzyme activity

ü  Anti Stretch Marks- Assays conducted at DRF are inhibition of proteolytic enzymes, anti-inflammatory potential, Estimation of ECM markers

ü  Improved Hair Health- Various models are available at DRF for promoting good hair health. These include Hair growth, conditioning, smoothening, softening, pigmentation, photoprotection, scalp health, anti-head lice activity, hair damage control, hair breakage and sensorial attribute.

In addition to the efficacy assays, DRF also has the capability to offer in-vitro safety assays for Cosmetics. In-vitro safety assays are performed as per the regulatory guidelines such as OECD and INVITTOX guidelines. Various assays performed at DRF as an alternate to testing on animals include:

ü  In vitro 3D-Skin Corrosion: Skin corrosion refers to the production of irreversible damage to the skin manifested as visible necrosis through the epidermis and into the dermis, following the application of a test chemical. Assay involves the use of in-vitro 3D-Skin.

ü  In vitro 3D-Skin Irritation: Skin irritation refers to the production of reversible damage to the skin occurring after exposure to a substance or mixture.

ü  HET-CAM (Hen’s Egg Test-Chorioallantoic Membrane) assay: This assay evaluates the potential ocular irritancy of a test substance as measured by its ability to induce toxicity in the chorioallantoic membrane of a chicken. Effects are measured by the onset of (1) haemorrhage; (2) coagulation; and (3) vessel lysis. These assessments are considered individually and then combined to derive a score, which is used to classify the irritancy level of the test substance.

In a nutshell, DRF has the expertise to offer start to end services for the testing of cosmetics without involving the use of animals.